The most common causes of an electric gate not opening are a flat remote battery, tripped safety photocells, a tripped safety edge, low battery on solar setups after cloudy weather, or a manual-release lever that's been disengaged and not re-engaged. Start with the basics: try a second remote or the keypad if you have one. Check for an LED on the receiver — solid usually means power is fine. Look for blocked photocells (cobwebs, leaves, parked car). Try the manual release key on the motor and see if the gate moves freely by hand — if it does, the issue is in the motor or controls; if not, the gate has a mechanical bind. Don't force a stuck gate; you'll damage the gearbox.

A gate that opens but won't close almost always has a triggered safety device — a photocell beam blocked, a safety edge being squeezed, or an inductive loop sensing a vehicle still in the gateway. Clean the photocells, check both LEDs are solid, and confirm there's nothing across the gate's path including small children, pets, or low shrubs. If you have an exit loop buried in the driveway, a metal object on or above it may be holding the gate open. Other causes include the motor's auto-close timer being disabled or set very long, or a low battery on a solar-powered setup. If clearing safety devices doesn't help, the close-limit may need adjustment by a technician.

Service your automatic gate at least once a year. The cost in Australia is typically $180–$320 and includes lubricating the track and rollers (sliding) or hinges and pivots (swing), tightening hardware, checking and lubricating the motor's gearbox if accessible, testing safety photocells and edges, checking the manual release operation, and adjusting force and travel limits. Coastal homes should service every six months due to salt corrosion on tracks and hardware. Heavy-use gates (more than 15 cycles a day) also warrant six-monthly checks. Between services, brush leaves and dirt out of the sliding gate track weekly — debris in the track is the single biggest cause of premature roller wear and motor strain.

Both are types of swing-gate motor and the choice mainly comes down to looks and budget. Underground motors (also called below-ground or in-ground) sit in a sealed metal box buried in concrete at the gate's pivot point, with only a small lever visible — they're the cleanest, most architectural option, and ideal for premium homes. They cost more ($1,500–$3,500 a leaf installed) and require excavation and good drainage to avoid flooding. Articulated motors (also called arm or ram motors) sit on the gate post and connect to the gate via a jointed arm or straight ram. They're cheaper ($800–$2,000 a leaf installed), easier to retrofit, and easier to service — but more visible. For new builds aiming for a high-end look, choose underground; for retrofits, articulated.